Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Have dtc P0442 small evap leak and dtc P0496 evap flow during non-purge. Did the tests per YouTube videos, disconnected electrical plug and hose beside electrical plug checked for vacuum with engine running, there was vacuum. Bought Purge solenoid thinking i solved those problems, hooked up my Innova 5160RS to find out that I still have those codes. I also have problem of when fill up tank that has gone below half a tank, when I start my car it starts and stalls immediately after starting. After that car cranks long time so I give it gas and it runs hesitantly until it smooths out. I suspect this is attributed to the 496 code. Gas cap is clean, filler tube looks like it needs some attention from 200 grit sandpaper or scotchbrite pad. Very minor rust where cap screws on.
Any suggestions on what part of book I should focus on for diagnostics so that I don’t throw more parts at it?
Did you check to make sure the new solenoid isn't also leaking?
Is it installed in the correct orientation? It's hard to get it on there backwards or upside down, but it's worth checking.
The codes and symptoms are text book examples of a sticking purge solenoid, and it is a very common fault on this engine.
And this might sound like a dumb question, but did you clear the codes after you changed the solenoid?
I only ask because the way your post reads it seems like you changed the valve and checked codes but they were still present, which they will be until you clear them.
I didn’t test new purge valve. I can check that, I believe it may be working. The reference to tank level is I filled after replacing solenoid but it was above half tank and no sputtering till it smoothed out. Tank was a needle width above half.
I tried to clear codes but not sure if it did. Followed on screen directions but when I got to erase codes step when pushed that button nothing happened.
Quick update. Tested purge solenoid, it’s good. Tried actuator test with scan tool to find out that function isn’t available on my scan tool. Have go old school to close off tube after vent solenoid with vise grips that won’t pinch my fingers in the process like Paul did on his wife’s friend’s Nissan.
To be clear, you found the P0496 + P0442, changed the purge valve, cleared the codes, and got them back later? Were they stored as Current, Pending or Permanent?
P0496 is usually a slam dunk... With the engine idling, purge unplugged electrically and the vapor line (from the tank) off the purge valve, does a vacuum gauge show any vacuum?
P0496 is gone but P0442 remains after clearing codes the 2nd time. First time there was a glitch or something. Tackling “442” with multimeter because scan tool doesn’t have EVAP test capability. Have to save up for a higher scan tool. While sanding filler tube where cap goes I could smell gas, so I figure I’ll focus on that mechanical failure would probably be the most logical choice.
P0496 is gone but P0442 remains after clearing codes the 2nd time. First time there was a glitch or something.
That's what I was wondering about. You hit clear, but did the code actually clear? :huh: If it didn't, then I would suspect that it's being stored as a Permanent code, and you're chasing your tail.
If the P0442 is being stored as Permanent, you'll never be able to smash the 'Clear' button hard enough to make it go away. Permanent codes play by different rules. They won't clear until the EVAP monitor has run enough times to prove that the small leak is gone.
If the P0442 did in fact clear and returned after a test drive and a cold soak, then disregard the above and test away!
I don’t know if P0442 did clear but I did jack up car to try and access canister vent valve to find out that I need to jack the car up quite ways to find the plug. As I said earlier, I smelled gas when sanding rust off filler neck where gas cap screws on. Should I focus on charcoal canister instead, my thought process is if I smell gas that means charcoal canister is saturated. Granted they’re all in the same area. Best to make sure I’ve checked everything.
ABS Problem
Start the Cruze, sometimes ABS light stays on. Other times it turns off, on this scenario at about 5mph ABS comes back on and at about 10-15 mph Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control System comes on. In looking up how to diagnose this problem, YouTube suggestions range from most absurd of change Coil Pack to test ABS Wheel Speed Sensor with multimeter but doesn’t tell me how to the tone ring on wheel bearing hub. My question is can that be done with something other than a scan tool. My scan tool is limited in that department as well. It doesn’t have live data on ABS. The ABS code my tool shows is C0050-5A, Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit- Not Plausible.
A common cause of this is a corroded speed sensor circuit wire. Do a check of the sensor wires. A lot of times, a good tug on a wire will reveal a "stretchy" section. If you find a "stretchy" section, you have likely found your problem. Go ahead and pull it apart. Then repair the wire.
I believe, these are magnetoresistive Wheel Speed sensors. The brake module will supply a power voltage on one wire and a ground on the other. Another way to find a bad section of wire is to use a volt meter, or scope to backprobe the connector, power and ground, so that you can read the voltage supplied by the brake module. Now, start wiggle testing the wiring harness while watching for voltage changes.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer." I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
In testing with multimeter I believe I have magnetoresistive sensor. 4 volts on left rear on feed wire on body ground using second wire for ground I get 11.1 volts. Left side is known good. Right rear is 1.49 volts on feed wire with ground lead on strut mount and 0 voltage using both wires. Close up photos are right rear, yellow on both sides are feed wires. Violet on right rear and blue on left rear are ground.
In diagnosing this problem I believe I've shorted out body control module. Pictures to follow, have an idea of where to start. Not sure where to start. Thinking Body Control Module.
Unable to upload pics. I’ll list codes in order with description. (1/5) C0050-06 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit-Low Voltage/Open. (2/5) C0045-06 Left Rear-Low Voltage/Open. (3/5) C0800-03 Control Module Power Circuit-Low Voltage. (4/5) U0140-71 Lost Communication With Body Control Module-Invalid Data. (5/5) The original [(C0050-5A) Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit-Not Plausible.
In the right rear wheel well is another connector that I suspect could be the ABS harness considering it has multiple wires and a pigtail comes out of it going to the right rear wheel speed sensor. Haynes repair manual wiring diagram doesn’t appear to cover ABS wiring.
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