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[FIXED] Bad TIPM or Starter relay port on PT 09

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7 years 1 month ago #6086 by Tyler
Glad to see you found the connector diagram! Good stuff. I found a decent picture of the locatipn:

drive.google.com/file/d/0BwIz-f3J815JOHV...Gs/view?usp=drivesdk

This is the best I can do while at work, I'll be on again later tonight. C104 is on the left side, near the DLC.

Lets start with a voltage reading on both wires during cranking. You totally can replace the whole wire if you want, but it may not be needed. Heck, you might even see the problem once you get your head under the dash.
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7 years 1 month ago - 7 years 1 month ago #6099 by c0astl|ght

Tyler wrote: Glad to see you found the connector diagram! Good stuff. I found a decent picture of the locatipn:

drive.google.com/file/d/0BwIz-f3J815JOHV...Gs/view?usp=drivesdk

This is the best I can do while at work, I'll be on again later tonight. C104 is on the left side, near the DLC.

Lets start with a voltage reading on both wires during cranking. You totally can replace the whole wire if you want, but it may not be needed. Heck, you might even see the problem once you get your head under the dash.


Alright. Thanks again.

I was able to pull out 2 of the diagrams for the C104 connectors.

They both seem to be behind the speed gauges under the dashboard. I checked the other side of the windsheild but there is nothing there except washer fluid, pumps, and hoses:







The last connector also looks alot like the connectors from the TIPM, but when I check the wiring diagram for the TIPM, it has no connector going by C104. The highest number on there is C11. So I have no idea where this is. Possibly behind the speed gauges as well?

I've also checked under the steering wheel but no indications of connector C104. Just a bunch of wires that seem to point me in the wrong direction:





These two connectors have 4 pins and 5 pins respectively. No where near the 43 pins that C104 connector has.

I'm going to try and pry the dash board out somehow. I've got to find those connectors. Well. Wish me luck.
Last edit: 7 years 1 month ago by c0astl|ght.

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7 years 1 month ago #6100 by c0astl|ght
Woah that's a lot of work to pull out a dashboard for 2 connectors.



Here they are taking out a Mazda dashboard and doing the whole works just to get at 1 plug.

I saw other videos related for the PT Cruiser but they just show people replacing the speed gauges / instrument clusters. Those videos showed nothing behind there with any connectors.

:huh:

There is no other way but to remove the whole thing hey?

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7 years 1 month ago #6110 by c0astl|ght
I think I found the connector. It should be the white one on the left (there is a black one on the right). This matches the diagram:





I was trying to figure out how to move that grey frame in the way of the white connector but I think I've got to remove the whole dashboard to do so. I guess I figured out some of it. :side:

I wasn't able to locate the other C104 connector. Perhaps once the dashboard is removed I will be able to see it. :side:

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7 years 1 month ago #6112 by Tyler
Hey, that white connector looks promising! :cheer: Yeah, that grey bracket probably isn't gonna move... Can you pop the connector loose of it's mounting? That'd help with access.

For the record, if this was my vehicle (or belonged to someone related to me), I'd run a new wire LONG before I'd pull the whole dash. I was hoping C104 would be more easily accessible than this, but it's not looking easy. :( No hate from me if you'd rather run a wire or take it to a professional.
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7 years 1 month ago - 7 years 1 month ago #6120 by c0astl|ght

Tyler wrote: Hey, that white connector looks promising! :cheer: Yeah, that grey bracket probably isn't gonna move... Can you pop the connector loose of it's mounting? That'd help with access.

For the record, if this was my vehicle (or belonged to someone related to me), I'd run a new wire LONG before I'd pull the whole dash. I was hoping C104 would be more easily accessible than this, but it's not looking easy. :( No hate from me if you'd rather run a wire or take it to a professional.


I can give it a shot to remove it tomorrow but that leaves the other connector somewhere else close-by. :side:

How do I run a long new wire? Do you mean to solder the old wire from ignition switch and plug it into starter relay like the testing I did earlier? That could be done but I don't know how long the wire will last like that. It would probably work for a month or so.

I think I hit a dead end on this one. I could give it another try to remove the grey frame/dashboard but damn it's looking like a Mike Tyson here.

I understand if you want to wash your hands clean from this one. This is going to be no easy task. I even thought I knew where the connectors were, but then I realized I was wrong so even I thought it would be an easy fix. Still, I'm going to try and give it another shot tomorrow. Thanks again.
Last edit: 7 years 1 month ago by c0astl|ght.

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7 years 1 month ago #6140 by Tyler

c0astl|ght wrote: How do I run a long new wire? Do you mean to solder the old wire from ignition switch and plug it into starter relay like the testing I did earlier? That could be done but I don't know how long the wire will last like that. It would probably work for a month or so.


Soldering works, or you could use some heat shrink butt connectors, either way. Go from the ignition switch, past C104, out to pin 2 at the starter relay. Rather than what you did earlier, I'd suggest cutting that red/dark blue wire close to the relay, and connect your new wire there. Follow the existing wiring where possible, use the zip ties to keep the new wire from rubbing. You can also use pieces of 1/4" rubber hose, split lengthwise, as a standoff when necessary.

It won't be pretty. ;) But, with some careful routing and zip ties, you can make it a permanent repair. It's not the ideal repair, I know, but it beats the heck out of pulling the dash!

I understand if you want to wash your hands clean from this one.


Screw that! :cheer: I'd love to see this one fixed, one way or another.
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7 years 1 month ago #6143 by c0astl|ght

Tyler wrote: Soldering works, or you could use some heat shrink butt connectors, either way. Go from the ignition switch, past C104, out to pin 2 at the starter relay. Rather than what you did earlier, I'd suggest cutting that red/dark blue wire close to the relay, and connect your new wire there. Follow the existing wiring where possible, use the zip ties to keep the new wire from rubbing. You can also use pieces of 1/4" rubber hose, split lengthwise, as a standoff when necessary.

It won't be pretty. ;) But, with some careful routing and zip ties, you can make it a permanent repair. It's not the ideal repair, I know, but it beats the heck out of pulling the dash!


I hear what you're saying. :lol: I did check out some other videos that got under the dash but it seems like that doesn't get anywhere deep. Still seems like alot more work to pull out more things.

I'll try to give it another shot but if it doesn't work I will take your suggestion. I can cut the red/blue wire and solder it to a new wire which I will solder to the ignition blue/pink wire. I like your ziptie ideas. ;)

You know what that might just work as well.

Alright, time for some work today.

Again I appreciate the help and I'll let you know how it goes. :)

You rock man!

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7 years 1 month ago #6148 by Tyler
You rock! None of this is easy work, as you know. Take pride knowing that these are pretty much the same struggles a professional would go through. ;-)

This may be Captain Obvious, but be sure to try starting the engine before putting everything back together. Once you're confident that the new wire works, you can slap the dash back together.
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7 years 1 month ago #6149 by c0astl|ght
You got it sir!

Well I feel like a professional now. :lol: I'm actually headed down that way but that is another story.

Well either way, today it's either going to be I get to the connectors or the wire is soldered on. I've been at this for almost 2 months now and I want my mom to drive her car again.

Soon I've got to look for work in the field. This is what I should have been doing years ago.

Alright. I will post the update as soon as I can!

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7 years 1 month ago #6150 by c0astl|ght
Just had to grab some breakfast. :D

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7 years 1 month ago #6181 by c0astl|ght
Success! ;)

Thank you Tyler.

I appreciate everyone's help but you made it happen brother!

I soldered on new connections, greased them up with dielectric grease and heat shrink for long lasting results.

I'm so happy this is done. Sure I got a few more tweaks here and there but once I clear codes the car should be running again smoothly.





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7 years 1 month ago #6182 by c0astl|ght








So yeah! The car runs and I just gotta put back the air filter and air sensor cause I smell some gas in there but it can be fixed.

Thanks again Tyler! You're the man!!! ;)
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7 years 1 month ago #6184 by Tyler
Nah, you da man! :cheer: Congratulations on the fix, sir!

You should definitely be proud of this one. Plus, think of all the money that was saved! No tow bill, no parts throwing at the dealer. :angry: Sorry, I know there are legit dealers out there... Somewhere? :lol:

Also, I had a glance at the forum statistics just now, check it out!



I love seeing long threads like this. B)
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7 years 1 month ago #6185 by c0astl|ght

Tyler wrote: Nah, you da man! :cheer: Congratulations on the fix, sir!

You should definitely be proud of this one. Plus, think of all the money that was saved! No tow bill, no parts throwing at the dealer. :angry: Sorry, I know there are legit dealers out there... Somewhere? :lol:

Also, I had a glance at the forum statistics just now, check it out!



I love seeing long threads like this. B)


Woah. My problem made it to #4! B)

Damn! I hope this helps lots of other people out there. It's thanks to Tyler! that's why folks! Gotta give respect where it is due.

Well. Saved alot of money for sure. $700 in parts and tools (mostly tools) and fixed something that could have been 1 grand plus easy; and no tools left over to use again. It was a good investment.

Distanced myself from the dealer for another 2 years plus. B)

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7 years 1 month ago #6186 by c0astl|ght
Time to move forward. B)

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7 years 1 month ago - 7 years 1 month ago #6187 by c0astl|ght
Yea there are probably okay dealers out there somewhere but as far as I can tell I've yet to meet a stand up dealer.

Everyone has to eat but that's why I don't sell cars. I prefer to do honest legit work. Just healthier way of life.
Last edit: 7 years 1 month ago by c0astl|ght.

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7 years 1 month ago #6226 by Tyler

c0astl|ght wrote: Yea there are probably okay dealers out there somewhere but as far as I can tell I've yet to meet a stand up dealer.

Everyone has to eat but that's why I don't sell cars. I prefer to do honest legit work. Just healthier way of life.


Amen to this. B) Also slapping a [FIXED] on the title.

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