Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Mitchel's says P061B Indicates calculation error in PCM. Checl sensor and circuit related DTC's Do not change ETB for this DTC. P2106 says the TAC system is in the FMEM (failure mode effects management)Mode of forced limited power. This DTC indicates the FMEM is in effect due to a concern in an ETC related component or module. This DTC is informational and may be set in combination with a number of other DTC causing the FMEM. Diag other DTC first. I'm going after a air filter in the morning. found this video after I found my air filter compromised.
I don't know what to check on the DPFE selinoid. Is that the egr? I don't see what I would call an EGR. It is running better (smooth again). But after running the RPM up it just wants to die at idle. Is this the DPE selinoid.
drive.google.com/file/d/1QEc7PNOjxxRtOaL...3H/view?usp=drivesdk
That's the EVAP purge valve. That style almost never fails, in my experience. You can check it by disconnecting the vapor line (from the tank, the one with the green cap on it), unplug the solenoid and put your finger over the vapor port with the engine running. You should feel no vacuum.
DPFE and EGR are related but are two different components. The EGR is attached to the intake and has a metal tube running from it to the exhaust manifold. Should have a vacuum line attached at the top. Unplug the vacuum line from the EGR. Should not have vacuum in the line at idle. If it does, the engine idle probably smoothed out when you unplugged it. The sensor that is attached to the EGR vacuum line is allowing vacuum at idle.
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
I really appreciate all the help. I am going out of the country on a mission trip and won't get back to this beast until February. In the meantime here are some pics of data. Cold idle 1500 and 2500.
So I now have a better scanner and did a couple things. First relative compression test. and Power balance. #3 cyl shows -32% . cyl 4 and 8 were slightly low but not nearly as bad as cyl #3. power balance shows #3 cyl very low. no surprise. here is a screen shot.
Basically you're experiencing a #3 and#4 misfire, going by your picture at idle speed. What happens with elevated rpm and/or when you put a load on the engine?
Pulling the head is not a move I'd start with...there are multiple possible causes for the misfires.
Depending on your gear you might want to start with a leak down test, running/snap compression test,.look at the injector current etc. A vacuum gauge is a great tool to detect mechanical issues as well.
An expert is someone who knows each time more on each time less, until he finally knows absolutely everything about absolutely nothing.
The picture of the power balance confirms the compression test. #3 cylinder is 32% low. The miss fire is the result of a compression problem. You can hear it when you crank the engine.
The cylinder balance test shows there is more than 1 bad cylinder....
Low compression can be caused by different things and a running and a snap throttle compression test will tell you cylinder-specific if there are any breathing issues..... Just do it and write down the results for static compression, running compression and snap throttle per cylinder....
What tools do you count with, in cylinder pressure sensor/scope available
? Then you can ac-couple the map sensor signal and analyse the intake pulls.
An expert is someone who knows each time more on each time less, until he finally knows absolutely everything about absolutely nothing.
I don't have a scope. Thats next on my tool list. I have a Scanner. DMM, amp meter. manual compression gauge. vac gauge. This vehicle has new plugs, a couple new coil on plugs, (before i started working on it) new intake manifold found with smoke test., new CMCV actuator. New Bank1 s1 o2 sensor. new air filter and new MAF. all of those things helped. I proved them all bad before replacing them but it still won't idle after advancing the throttle.
Have you tried pinching off the brake booster hose and purge valve at idle since those would not show up on a smoke test? How confident do you feel about your intake repair? Any chance you didn't get a good seal there? V-style engine can have an internal vacuum leak that also wouldn't show up on smoke tests. Just a couple other things you could look into.
