Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

1999 Chevy Tahoe 4x4 5.7L no start issue

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4 years 6 months ago #33358 by CJ1488
3 weeks ago i got a P1351 code and truck will crank but will not start. I have replaced everything imaginable, tested every wire more than three times. I now own 3 icm and 5 coils because of this. I do not know what else to go for help. I have power and tact going to icm from pcm but nothing coming out of icm. Why is that? I can send a complete list of things i replaced and tested if someone would like to help me out. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks carla

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4 years 6 months ago #33360 by cj1
Verify good ground to ICM?

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4 years 6 months ago #33363 by cheryl hartkorn
you got no spark at all from the coil tower? with coil wire unhooked

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4 years 6 months ago #33364 by John Curtis
Here’s a chart of it helps

Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Noah

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4 years 6 months ago #33367 by CJ1488
Its a chevy not a chrysler

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4 years 6 months ago #33368 by CJ1488
No and the coil test good. The icm also test good with signal going to icm but nothing comes out of icm

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4 years 6 months ago #33369 by CJ1488
Yes i have good ground good tact and voltage to icm but nothing coming out of icm

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4 years 6 months ago #33370 by John Curtis
when you are testing for voltage, is it with the com plugged in?

Check the connectors and make sure they’re making. Good contact.

2 unplug the ICM and use a headlight bulb or something that has a decent current as a test light and see if the wire is able to handle load.

Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.

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4 years 6 months ago #33372 by John Curtis
when you are testing for voltage, is it with the com plugged in?

Check the connectors and make sure they’re making. Good contact.

2 unplug the ICM and use a headlight bulb or something that has a decent current as a test light and see if the wire is able to handle load.


You might want to try a bypass test and see if you can make it fire that way.

Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.

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4 years 6 months ago #33373 by CJ1488
Here is a list of all the things I have done and tested:

Bought new crank sensor. Tested 12 v good ground. Checked signal to PCM. All is okay.
To make sure I'm not tripping, I pierced all three wires at PCM, all had same reading and are good.
Then replaced ICM 4 wire, all checked out good with voltage.
Checked signal and ground at com all checked good.
Checked coil have power to it, the signal wire white and black is giving signal. But no fire out of coil. Absolutely none.
On the ICM, we do have trigger signal from PCM, and do no have signal coming from the ICM.
Changed cam sensor, okay checked good.
Changed Distributor cap, and rotor button they check good.
Changed all plug wires, pulled all plugs checked them. And they check good.
Changed ignition cylinder, and column.
Just for shits and giggles I took distributor out and put #1 TDC.
On the coil the link wire is positive, white tachometer, and black and white ignition signal, I took another plug and put on the coil link wire on connector which is 12v without anything connected to. With key on 12v going on and 12v coming out of white wire wire and white and black wire.
I had a code of 1351, said ground #1 cylinder. How can the ICM send the ignition signal to the coil when the coil is putting out 12v?
This is why I can't get fire coming from coil I think.

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4 years 6 months ago - 4 years 6 months ago #33376 by John Curtis

CJ1488 wrote: Here is a list of all the things I have done and tested:

Bought new crank sensor. Tested 12 v good ground. Checked signal to PCM. All is okay.
To make sure I'm not tripping, I pierced all three wires at PCM, all had same reading and are good.
Then replaced ICM 4 wire, all checked out good with voltage.
Checked signal and ground at com all checked good.
Checked coil have power to it, the signal wire white and black is giving signal. But no fire out of coil. Absolutely none.
On the ICM, we do have trigger signal from PCM, and do no have signal coming from the ICM.
Changed cam sensor, okay checked good.
Changed Distributor cap, and rotor button they check good.
Changed all plug wires, pulled all plugs checked them. And they check good.
Changed ignition cylinder, and column.
Just for shits and giggles I took distributor out and put #1 TDC.
On the coil the link wire is positive, white tachometer, and black and white ignition signal, I took another plug and put on the coil link wire on connector which is 12v without anything connected to. With key on 12v going on and 12v coming out of white wire wire and white and black wire.

Probably more of a problem with how I’m reading it however, for the ICM the white wire with a black stripe should fire your coil.

The black wire with a white stripe is a ground wire.


I had a code of 1351, said ground #1 cylinder. How can the ICM send the ignition signal to the coil when the coil is putting out 12v?
This is why I can't get fire coming from coil I think.



Also...: I just re-read from the top and didn’t see anything on it so I’ve gotta ask do you have injector pulse?

Do you have reference voltage on an easy to reach sensor?

Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.
Last edit: 4 years 6 months ago by John Curtis.

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4 years 6 months ago #33378 by CJ1488
i also checked my fuel pressure and its also good. the wires to my ICM are pink white and white with black stripe.

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4 years 6 months ago #33379 by CJ1488
no i do not have spark

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4 years 6 months ago - 4 years 6 months ago #33381 by John Curtis
Test light on battery + to check for injector pulse. Trying to get direction to help you.

No spark + No injector pulse is a different problem than
No spark + Good injector pulse

Also can you check with a voltmeter one lead on battery ground and the other lead and test any sensor like a MAF sensor check all wires and see if any of them show 5v with sensor unplugged? The. Plug it in and take a reading and see if it changes?

Report your findings

Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.
Last edit: 4 years 6 months ago by John Curtis.

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4 years 6 months ago #33397 by CJ1488
you say try a bypass test and see if it fires... how do i do that and also explaine the headlight bulb trick

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4 years 6 months ago #33398 by CJ1488
at one time i had fire to cylenders 3 and 5. but not 1

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4 years 6 months ago #33399 by CJ1488
when you hook up the battery put the negative cable on then when u put the positive cable on you get this little spark.. well i dont have that little spark. why is that? and could that be a problem??

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4 years 6 months ago #33400 by cheryl hartkorn
check engine block ground and body grounds?? hook meter up to battery negative and touch engine block should see close to 0 volts. while cranking. then do the smae while on fender front core support etc

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