FIXED Crank no start, no spark
- jonathandean
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Remember the car drove into the garage before the engine work so it would be unlikely that all 4 coils have failed, is it likely the ecu is at fault?
Thanks for every ones help I really appreciate every bodies thoughts and ideas
Jonathan
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- borntoroll
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- jonathandean
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Thanks again for your help, the electronic side of cars is not my strongest point, I learn't on a Morris Minor!
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- borntoroll
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- jonathandean
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Jonathan
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- jonathandean
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The other thing I'm worried about is you not having power to the coils with just the key on. This may be absolutely normal but I think it's worth noting?
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- jonathandean
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Yes there are multiple control wires, one shared power and one shared earth, an amp test on the positive lead reads 0 amps all the time, the coils don't fire, no current flow?
Cranking the engine gives 12v to all coils, this is a common system with european cars.
The injectors fire when cranking, does this show correct timing inputs are there?
The bi directional scanner controls don't make the coils fire and touching a positive fed test light to the control wire doesn't make them fire.
Every other Bi directional controls for the car work, ie the injectors fire when commanded,so i have correct communication
My understanding is the coil turns itself on by switching a path to ground to allow current flow through the windings, i have tried to use a test lead straight from coil negative to battery negative to see if a better earth helps, but no difference.
No fault codes stored.
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- jonathandean
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- jonathandean
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I am still very confused as to why I cannot power the coils independently, do you know should it be possible, for example, to test the coil off the car with a power probe supplying power and ground and the test light supplying the control current?
Thanks for your help with all this I do appreciate it
Jonathan
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Yes that is what I was going to suggest. Remove a coil from the car, give the appropriate pins a power and a ground, and use the test light on the control pin. Use an amp probe connected to the scope when you are doing this, and make sure you give the spark somewhere to go to ground, as it won't be in the car anymore.
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- borntoroll
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Were PCM connectors disconnected? Maybe some pins are bent?
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- jonathandean
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I have tried to manually power the coils off the car, referring to the diagram,
I put a 12 v source on pin 3
A constant ground on pin 2
I touched a test light connected to power to pin 1
I think that is the correct way to do the test?
I didn't get a spark
I thought the coils where power controlled?
The PCM has never been disconnected whilst I have had the car, I can check for bent pins.
The ground source is shared with another component, could the effect things? Although it would't affect the coil operation off the car.
The engine on this car was a joint design with peugeot and BMW it was used on the Mini One models, I can find a spec for the primary coil winding resistance check off a Mini, which says 0.3 ohms, all my coils read 0.8 ohms, does that help?
I really can't thank you all enough for your help here, if any of you are in the UK feel free to call in for a few beers
Jonathan
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- borntoroll
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- jonathandean
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- borntoroll
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1.First of all they must all be connected to one power source.
2. Connect battery negative to pin 2 and a spark plug.
3. Connect battery postitve to pin 3.
4. connect battery negative through a 10k resistor to pin 1. And then touch pin 1 with incondescent test light connected to battery positive.
5. If there is no spark disconnect pin 1. Use the same wire with 10k resistor now connect it from battery positive to pin 1 through a 10k resistor. Now touch pin 1 with incondescent testlight connected to battery negative this time.
6. Don't leave a pull-up/down resistor connected to pin 1 for too long as you can overheat the coil. I think no more than 10-15 seconds to check and then a little pause for a couple of minutes.
Check couple of coils.
Let us know the results.
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