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2000 Ford Ranger 2.5L Engine 174k miles, manual transmission. Lost it's marbles?

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03 Feb 2019 17:10 #26761 by Dtnel
2000 Ford Ranger 2.5 , 2 wheel dr 174k miles, manual trans.

This originally was a no start, possible starter. After verifying power and switch power at the starter by using the wiring diagram I remove the starter bench tested it found the starter was good.

I used to 22 mm socket, along with a long breaker bar as I forgot my half-inch drive ratchet. I slowly moved the crankshaft back and forth a quarter to half turn and everything was free so then I slowly wound it around and it worked just fine. It worked just fine until I decided to crank it over after reinstalling the starter that is at least.

The video below can probably explain more in a few seconds then I can typing in 30 seconds.

Looks as if this Engine has lost it's marbles.

Help me with some thoughts as this isn't my Ford and I generally don't dabble in Ford as I have other brands I gravitate to.

Here's a video that has left me scratching my head. Valvetrain? That's the direction I'm leaning. Note when this noise was going on I did smell gas but also had to depress the gas pedal all the way to get it to run otherwise it would just die out like a stuck pig.



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03 Feb 2019 19:40 - 03 Feb 2019 19:51 #26763 by Tyler

Dtnel wrote: Looks as if this Engine has lost it's marbles.


I dunno man, it sure sounds to me like all the marbles are rattling around in the engine! :lol:

Put me down for $5 on jumped timing. Easiest way might be to put a vacuum gauge on the brake booster hose and observe during cranking (without holding the throttle open). Should go into a few inches of vacuum, but probably won't. Any pressure reading is a red flag.

EDIT: Is this the same Ranger that had the high idle when downshifting?
Last edit: 03 Feb 2019 19:51 by Tyler.

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03 Feb 2019 22:08 #26769 by Dtnel

Tyler wrote:

Dtnel wrote: Looks as if this Engine has lost it's marbles.


I dunno man, it sure sounds to me like all the marbles are rattling around in the engine! :lol:

Put me down for $5 on jumped timing. Easiest way might be to put a vacuum gauge on the brake booster hose and observe during cranking (without holding the throttle open). Should go into a few inches of vacuum, but probably won't. Any pressure reading is a red flag.

EDIT: Is this the same Ranger that had the high idle when downshifting?

Yeah it's the same one. Never got to look at it as he was to busy. Some people never learn.

He was out driving around in -25 weather in the blizzard earlier this week and it quit running. Not a smart move but he said he had to clear his head.

How's it working with the timing on Ford's? Not much experience with them. If you know that's fine otherwise I'll research it. Maybe now that it's down for the count it could be a easy fix. He said when it quit the other night it sounded like the starter grinding when the vehicle abruptly shut off.

After speaking with him a bit ago come to find out this was one that he had the timing belt replaced on back last summer but it sat 4 months before he picked it up.

So you're right pm Tyler I'm wondering if something happened as a result of the timing belt. IF they threw a belt on and it was acting the way it was it's leading me to lean in the direction of timing.

My wonder is if it was running with the hiccup then why all the sudden would it just shut down unless the severe cold weather could've caused enough shrinkage in the belt to cause it skip a tooth or two.

So I'm almost guessing if the last guy found it running rough, saw a worn belt, replaced it while setting timing but maybe there was engine damage such as a faulty valve and now it's got worse?

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04 Feb 2019 12:55 #26777 by Dtnel
After further thought I'm going to do what you recommended.

I'll also do a compression test, leak down test if I can get air over there. I'll pull the valve cover and see if anything sticksout. Drop the oil, check for shavings. Pull the oil filter, cut it open removing the outer metal housing, cut the filter and check for shavings there as well. Once I get this stuff figured out I'll probably pull the heads. I do want to pull a plug in each cylinder and check the top of the pistons and the valves as well, at least what's visible with the dual angle lens. I should really have a good sense of direction by this point or at least I hope so.

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04 Feb 2019 13:42 #26778 by Tyler
Ahhhhh so the belt got done recently, eh? :ohmy: Interesting. Eager to hear what you find!

It's been awhile since I did a belt on one of these? But I distinctly remember seeing multiple timing 'marks' on the various pulleys. Only one set is right. :silly: Others will result in a no start or rough idle. Probably worth researching if you're gonna go down this road.

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05 Feb 2019 04:21 #26801 by Dtnel

Tyler wrote: Ahhhhh so the belt got done recently, eh? :ohmy: Interesting. Eager to hear what you find!

It's been awhile since I did a belt on one of these? But I distinctly remember seeing multiple timing 'marks' on the various pulleys. Only one set is right. :silly: Others will result in a no start or rough idle. Probably worth researching if you're gonna go down this road.


It's interesting you me mention the various pulleys but one way. I stumbled across a video on YouTube the other day about the timing marks but they were saying that all 3 pulleys had to line up with arrows on case housing's so I'll have to look for more reliable sources of information regarding that.

Waiting for the owner to decide what he wants to do. It's -2 this evening so I'm not working outside on anything and I need to replace the transmission cooler lines on my Tahoe coming from the radiator I think I'll get the 3rd line as with what needs to be done I might as well replace the 3rd one.

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