Re:Re:Show us your homemade Test Equipment

My guess was that they are dumb units passing on whatever they received for authorisation by the KVM.
A cheap 433 receiver from ebay is next stop , but I do like to re-purpose OEM kit !

So for the princely sum of about $6 I got a 433Mhz receiver off ebay. Hooked it up to 5v and the scope;



Peugeot Key (single block of transmission)


Jag Key (3 blocks transmitted)

I’ve got a whole list of things to develop and make. So far this is it.

John Curtis wrote: I’ve got a whole list of things to develop and make. So far this is it.

Those look great!

Noah wrote:

John Curtis wrote: I’ve got a whole list of things to develop and make. So far this is it.

Those look great!

Thanks. Just tuned everything in and fixed the flaws going forward that were in the initial sets. The initial sets are functional but a tiny bit out of square during production. Figured I’d make a holder for them that can double as a way to hold my test leads.
Unfortunately I’ve got about 4 sensors that aren’t perfect visually but have the same functionality.

[quote=

Unfortunately I’ve got about 4 sensors that aren’t perfect visually but have the same functionality.[/quote]

PM sent

AJeep18 wrote: [quote=

Unfortunately I’ve got about 4 sensors that aren’t perfect visually but have the same functionality.

PM sent[/quote]

Responded.

John Curtis wrote:

But seriously, what's your PayPal?

Tyler wrote:

John Curtis wrote:

But seriously, what's your PayPal?

I’ll PM you.

John Curtis wrote: I’ll PM you.

No I'll PM YOU!

Going off some of the ideas here, I decided to “mod” my test light. Added an insulated female spade terminal to the end and then male ones the the end of the attachments I wanted, I think it worked out pretty well! And no need to have 3 different test lights with different ends!

Nice !
I have been using stackable banana plugs - effectively both male and female so one on the test light one on the earth clamp and all my probes also fit so I can alligator or probe for a jumper.
Also got a 10ft double ended retractable reel that has two wires, one I put stackable bananas on each end, others are alligators.
Just made a cable today for using a phone power bank as a 5v power supply for pressure transducers, added 33ohms of resistance else the powerbank shuts off after 30s. Sadly 150ma was too much for the LED I built in to it!

Wightscope wrote: Just made a cable today for using a phone power bank as a 5v power supply for pressure transducers, added 33ohms of resistance else the powerbank shuts off after 30s. Sadly 150ma was too much for the LED I built in to it!

Good thinking about the resistor. I've had problems with both a power bank and a 18V>12V/5V power tool battery adapter shutting down at low load with my USB>Banana cable. The tool battery adapter was also shutting off the 12V with my 10-30V "transducers". Hacked it to to run 18V straight from the battery to the 12V port.

For 12v stuff I bought one of those 20AHr Lithium jump starters with a 10A, 12v output on a 5mm plug.
Mainly use it via a 12/24v buck to run a Quiko soldering iron set up - that works really well -and I have a Jump starter handy as a bonus.



Most of my transducers are 5v but I just got a 10Bar absolute (ie complete vacuum to +9bar) sensor that is 12v, - going to need a load cable for that too.

Beat you to it Tyler

AJeep18 wrote: Beat you to it Tyler

Lookin' good.

A few things I used on my scope recently and thought I would share the first using a chassis ear to visualize a bad wheel bearing (easily done with the included headphone) I'm going to try these on different places around the engine to find noises next time I get 1 ticking to see if it helps. the second is just a current shunt I was diagnosing a intermittent parasitic drain from rubbed through wire in the harness and needed to be able to see when and where I was pulling that it acted up, so like everybody else I grabbed my low current probe only to find it had been left on for the 10th time in a row and the battery was dead and I was out of 9v batteries (I assume just like everybody else) but I had a 30a current shunt laying around from a project years ago and it worked ! Not great certainly to low current probe like but good enough to find a intermittent draw while i wiggled the harness . Sorry I get any pics of it in use...

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Here's another 1 on a rear wheel drive Lincoln front wheel bearing is bad sounds like it's coming from drivers on road test but load test says passenger. spinning front wheel by hand you can hear there is bearing noise from right side and just a slight rotor scrape on left side. hooked up the chassis ear and listening with headphones cannot tell which bearing is making noise (I was suprised as I could hear it without headphones) hooked it up to chassis ear and spinning left side with rotor scrape is 1st frame 2nd and 3rd is spinning right side

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I have seen a clever trick with a stethoscope on an oscilloscope which is to look at the frequency peak of the sound then you can match it to the crank, valvetrain, a wheel a particular pulley or whatever.
So at 1200rpm a sound at 10Hz is going to be valvetrain as the cams rotate at half the speed of the crankshaft, or maybe an idler pulley bearing - if it is 2/3rds of the size of the crank pulley will make a noise at 13.3Hz
There must be a simple way of detecting which wheel bearing it is by seeing if the frequency goes up or down when turning a corner...

I love the idea of using frequency to diag how fast it's moving sadly I decided to save a few bucks and bought the autel scope rather than the picoscope..... and as luck would have it they dont support frequency yet....

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